Laaste reis van die KLR in Europa vir hierdie jaar.

Goeie more!

Vanoggend se Duitse koerante het veral twee prominente berigte op die voorblaaie: Spanje wat Europakampioen geword het, en die verkiesing van mnr. Mugabe.

Dit was 'n wonderlike paar weke van sokker, al is ek geen sokkeraanhanger nie. Die Duitsers was wonderlike ondersteuners van hul span en ook goeie verloorders. Volpunte aan hulle.

Oor mnr. Mugabe is die berigte minder vleiend. Al die koerante noem dit bedrog en 'n klug.

En noem dat hy slegs staande bly as gevolg van Suid-Afrika se hulp aan hom ... Pynlik.

(Ek weet 'n mens begin nie 'n sin met "en" nie, maar ek wou.)

Vanoggend takel ek die 400 km Munchen toe. Dis my laaste lang ry hier in Europa. Ek wil probeer vanmiddag die meeste papierwerk by Doeane afhandel, en more oggend moet ek die fiets dan afgee aan die lugdiens. Weens veiligheidsmaatreels moet die KLR reeds vyf dae voor sy vlug daar wees.

Die KLR loop nog goed maar na 18 000 km van Naboom2Germany word 'n goeie diens nou dringend noodsaaklik. Ek gaan Donderdag my finale indrukke oor die KLR as enduro-toerfiets gee. Daar kom 'n paar interessante stukkies inligting.

Vanaand in Beiere wil ek probeer Schweinshaxe eet (wat ons Suid-Afrikaners Eisbein noem maar hier nie Eisbein is nie) en more vir ontbyt die tipiese Beierse ontbyt van 'n paar Weisswuerste (wit wors), soet mosterd en soutbrood. Die tradisionele Weizenbier daarmee saam los ek vir eers.

Hou duim vas dat ons laaste rit hier ook voorspoedig is!

Wondelrike dag aan julle almal!


Good morning!

This morning the front pages of all the German newspapers carry two reports: Spain's victory over Germany last night, and the results of Zimbabwe's presidential election.


Although I am not a soccer fan I enjoyed the soccer of the last few weeks. The support of the German public for their national team was wonderful, and in defeat they were gracious. Full marks to them!


Less flattening are the reports about mr Mugabe. All the newspapers called the election a farce, and that he remains in power only due to the support of South Africa. How embarrassing.


This morning the KLR and I tackle the 400 km to Munich, our last long ride in Europe. I am going to try and get most paperwork at Customs done this afternoon. Tomorrow I have to hand over the bike to the airline. Due to security measures the bike must be there at least five days before departure.


The bike is still running fine but after 18 000 km of Naboom2Germany riding it is seriously needing a major service soon. On Thursday I will give my final impressions on the KLR as an enduro touring bike. There will be some interesting pieces of information.


Tonight in Bavaria I am going to eat Schweinshaxe (we call it Eisbein in South Africa, but Eisbein and Schweinshaxe are prepared differently), and for breakfast tomorrow the typical Bavarian breakfast of Weisswurst und Suesssenf (a pair of white sausages with a sweet mustard), with that a salty bread bun but no Weizenbier!


So, let us hope that this last ride in Europe will be safe for me and the KLR!


Have a great day!

In Pulheim by Dieter en Dorothée

Met Det en Nele (slapend :-)) by die Ryn.
With Det and (sleeping) Nele at the Rhine.

Dieter en Dorothee het 'n groot SA vlag vir my opgehand om te wys waar hulle woon.
Dieter and Dorothee used a SA flag to show me where they live.

Ek, Dorothee, Dieter en Pauline, hulle dogter. Haar vriend Christoph het die foto geneem.
I, Dorothee, Dieter and their daughter Pauline. Her friend Christoph took the photograph.

Hallo!

Nog 'n besoek by vriende, nog 'n keer staan ek beskaamd oor al die goedheid wat ek al op my reis ervaar het.

Ek en Det en Ivi, Fin en Nele het Saterdagoggend 'n lang ent in Dusseldorf gaan stap. Det en Ivi is twee skitterende ouers vir hul kinders. Terwyl Ivi met Fin by sy swemklas was, het ek en Det en die slapende Nele tot by die Ryn gestap. Nog 'n groot rivier op my huidige reis het 'n merkie agter sy naam gekry.

Ek het Satermiddag so kort voor twee by Dieter en Dorothée Moritz in Pulheim aangekom. Hulle is twee ou vriende van baie Botswanareise van vorige jare.

Vooraf het Dorothée geskryf dat ek hul huis maklik sou herken as ek in hul straat kom. Ek het, want van ver kon ek al die groot SA vlag wat voor hul huis gewapper het, sien.

Dieter en Dorothée was skitterende gashere en die aand het te gou verbygevlieg. Ons het nog tot laat DVD’s van hul reise gekyk. Die fotografie was werklik besonders.

Sondagoggend het ek my verslaap. Dit was salig. Dorothée het ‘n reuse ontbyt gereed gehad. Vir die soveelste keer die laaste paar dae het ek my hopeloos ooreet.

Ek was vreemd “sad” toe ek by die liewe Moritze weggery het.

Nou kom ek terug na my eerste sin. Hoe sal ek ooit al die baie mense wat vir my as 'n vreemdeling of vriend tydens my reis hulle huise / hutte oopgemaak het, vir hul gasvryheid kan bedank?

Ek glo nie ek sal ooit weer iemand wat by my huis vir kos aanklop, by die hek kan laat staan nie.

Van een van my grootste skoolvriende wat ek eeue laas gesien het, Roelf Kleynhans,het ek ook nou ‘n e-pos ontvang. Roelf, baie dankie! Sodra ek weer e-pos kan skryf, skryf ek terug.

Groete

Hello!

Another visit to friends, again I was left speechless by all the love and friendship shown to me.

Saturday morning Det and Ivi, Fin and Nele and I went for a long walk in Dusseldorf. Det and Ivi are passionate parents who really enjoy their children. While Ivi was with Fin at his swimming class Det, Nele and I walked to the Rhine River. Standing at this great river I ticked off another great river of this world seen on my trip.

I arrived in Pulheim at Dieter and Dorothée Moritz jus before two on Saturday afternoon. They are old friends for many years and together we did three Botswana tours during the previous four years.

Dorothée wrote earlier that when I would easily recognize their house. Riding slowly down their street I saw a big beautiful South African flight hanging from the window of a house. I immediately knew that I’d arrived.

Dieter and Dorothée were two excellent hosts. We had a great dinner and after that watched a few travel DVDs of some of their wonder journeys of the past. The evening was over too soon.

I overslept this morning. I needed that. Dorothée had a gigantic breakfast ready and we sat chatting for another hour or so.

I felt sad leaving there. When are we going to meet again?

Now back to my question of the first paragraph. How can I thank all those friends or strangers in Africa and Europe who opened their homes / huts to me during my long trip?

I don’t think I could let stand a stranger at the gate of my house if he / she asks for water / food.

I received an email from one of my biggest school friends I had, Roelf Kleynhans. We haven’t seen each other for many, many years. Thank you so much Roelf! I will mail as soon as I can.

Regards!

In Dusseldorf by Det en Ivi

Naand!

Ek het vandag twee emails gehad met vertalings vir die Poolse woorde. Dis toe nie die versugting van 'n vuisvoos Suid-Afrikaner nie. Baie dankie aan Marius Cronje uit Pretoria en Maniunia Spence van Stellenbosch wat vir my die vertalings gestuur het,

So lyk die vertalings:

Rowery = bicycles;
skutery = scooters;
ogród = garden

Ek het vandag weer in reen gery. Dit was goeie oefening vir die Kaapse winterweer wat binnekort op my wag. Sommige Duitse provinsies se skoolvakansie het nou begin. Op die A3 Autobahn by Keulen in 'n oostelike rigting het ek verby 'n verkeersopeenhoping gery wat baie kilometers lank was.

Ek kuier nou by Det en Ivi en hul twee kinders Fin en Nele in Dusseldorf. Ek ken hulle van vroeere besoeke aan Suid-Afrika. Die twee is dokters en baie hartstogtelik oor Suid-Afrika. Ons het vanmiddag lank in die lekker sonnetjie gesit en oor my Afrika-ervaringe gepraat. Hoe meer ek mense vertel oor wat ek ervaar het, hoe meer kom ek agter hoe die ervaringe my met so 'n groterwordende liefde vir Afrika en sy mense vul. Al is daar minder goeie regerings die mense soos ek en jy is goed.

Toe moes ek dink aan die foto wat ek in Siegen geneem het en wat ook hier bo is:

Ich öffnete endlich die Augen. Uiteindelik het ek my oë oopgemaak en gesien.

Dis wat ek ons almal in Suid-Afrika toewens: Dat ons ons land se positiewe kante ook sal raaksien, nie net die negatiewe nie. Dat ons regering eindelik sal besef dat regstellende aksie (affirmative actions) ook 'n einde moet kry, tot voordeel van ons land.

Dat 'n mens so ver moet ry om duideliker te kan sien.

Heerlike aand aan julle almal.


Good evening!

I received two e-mails today with the translations for the Polish words. It turned out not to be the groans from a disheartened South African. Thank you Marius Cronje from Pretoria and Maniunia Spence from Stellenbosch for sending me the translations.

The translations are as follows:

Rowery = bicycles;

Skutery = scooters;

Ogród = garden

I rode in rain again today. But it was good practise for the Cape winter weather that is awaiting me on my return to South Africa. Some of the German provinces’ school holidays started. On the A3 Autobahn at Cologne, in an easterly direction, I rode past a traffic jam that was kilometres long.

I am visiting with Det and Ivi and their two children Fine and Nele in Dusseldorf. I know them from earlier visits to South Africa. They are both doctors and are passionate about South Africa. We sat for a long time in the afternoon sun, talking about my Africa-experience. The more I tell people about my experiences, the more I realise how my experiences have filled me with a growing love for Africa and its people. Even if there are less good goverments people like you and me have to show what humanity is all about.

I took a picture in Siegen. It is the last picture above.

Ich öffnete endlich die Augen. Eventually I opened my eyes and saw.

This is my wish for all of us in South Africa: Let us see first the positive side of our country and not only the negative. I personally hope and trust that our government will eventually realise that affirmative action has to stop, to the best advantage of our country.

Amazing that a person had to ride this far to see clearer.

A lovely evening to you all.

Nog 'n dag se ry is verby.

Goeie naand!

Ek het vandag 'n heerlike kort rydag gehad, slegs 127 km van Langenselbold na Siegen toe. More gaan ek Dusseldorf toe en Saterdag Pulheim toe.

Ek het netnou e-posse kon aflaai. Een was van 'n ou skoolmaat van my, George Meiring. Hy noem toe dat hy oor die webblad van 'n ander skoolmaat van ons, Annamarie van Zyl wat nou in Australie woon, 'n e-pos gekry het. George het van die Naboom2Germany webblad gehoor van nog 'n ander klasmaat van ons Dalena (Rhode), wat weer by Estelle (Wessels), nog 'n verdere klasmaat van ons van die webblad gehoor het. Dan is daar nog Elize (Moir) en Krap Venter. Dit word 'n virtuele klasreunie in die kleine.

George het my uitgenooi by hulle te oornag op my rit terug Naboom toe. Daar is net een probleem, kollegas Lize en Suzanne, George-hulle woon aan die Tuinroete en dis 'n bietjie van 'n ompad. :-)

Die sokker gisteraand was groot feestelikhede. In Berlyn was daar 500 000 mense by die "public viewing" naby die Brandenburger Tor. As Duitsland Sondag die finaal sou wen, gaan die hele Duitsland in een groot straatfees ontplof.

Maar mense, is die sokkerspelers goeie akteurs! 'n Ligte stampie en die speler rol ineengekrimp van pyn op die grond. Ek sou graag die sokkerspelers wou sien as onse Beast oor die hele span hardloop!

Wie ken Pools? Ek het 'n advertensiebord in Pole gesien wat my eers laat glimlag het en toe skuldig laat ophou glimlag het. Ek sou graag wou weet wat dit beteken. Dit het op die bord gestaan:

Rowery.
Skutery.
Ogód.

Ek groet. Ons maak gereed vir vanaand se sokker, Spanje teen Rusland. En veral vir al die vriende en oud-skoolmaats wat nou in die buiteland woon en werk, warm Suid-Afrikaanse groete! (Ek en George se ouer sussies wat groot vriende op skool was, is ook nou in die buiteland, in die VSA en Engeland. Groete Ina en Elize!)


Today was a relaxed riding day. In golden sunshine I rode the 127 km from Langenselbold to Siegen. Tomorrow I go on to Dusseldorf and on Saturday to Pulheim.

I downloaded emails a short while ago. One was from an old school friend, George Meiring. He told me of how Naboom2Germany brought him in contact with a few of our other school friends. Dalena (Rhode) called him a few weeks ago and told him about the website. Dalena heard from Estelle (Wessels) about the website. George received this morning an email from one of our other school friends now living in Australia, Annamarie (Treurnich). And then there are Elize (Moir) and Krap Venter, also part of the Naboom2Germany community. It is turning into a virtual class reunion on small scale.

George invited me to spend one night with them on my way back to Naboom. There is only one problem. My dearest colleagues Lize and Suzanne, George and his family live on the Garden Route. It is ... a bit ... out of the way. :-)

Last night there were big celebrations in Germany after the football match against Turkey. In Berlin at the public viewing near Brandenburger Tor half a million fans gathered to watch the match and celebrate afterwards. If Germany is going to become European Champions on Sunday whole Germany will explode into one big street party!

But boy o boy, are these soccer players good actors. It is amazing how they could roll on the ground, paralized by pain, after a little contact with an opponent. How would they react if our Beast from South Africa would run over and through them? :-)

It is time to say goodbye, we are going to watch the next semi-final play soon. Especially to all the friends and old school friends living and working overseas, a warm South African hug to you! Especially to Ina and Elize, now in the USA and UK, God bless!

Sokkervreugde!

Duitskand het 3-2 gewen en speel Sondag in die finaal. 10 sekondes video van die vreugde op straat. Die greep is slegs 616 kb.

Ek begin nou al selfs te droom

Ons het vanaand lekker in die reen gebraai / We had a braai tonight, despite the rain.

Die Suid-Afrikaanse vlag hang nog steeds bo die Duitse vlag in Langenselbold. / The South African flag is still hoisted in Langenselbold.

Ek voel soos die blommetjie op die voorgrond. Pap. / I feel like the flower in the foreground. Not so fresh.

Vanaand speel Duitsland teen Turkye in die semi-finaal van die Europa Kampioenskap. Vlae hang orals en 'n karnavalstemming heers dwarsdeur die hele land.

Ek het nog net 5 en 'n half rydae in Duitsland oor tot ek die fiets in Munchen afgee.

Ek begin snaakse drome te droom. Al my drome gaan oor Afrika. Laasnag het ek gedroom ek ry die laaste ent huis toe en orals langs die pad staan van die mense wat ek dwars oor Afrika ontmoet en wat op my 'n groot indruk gemaak het. Daarby het ek 'n groot heimwee ondervind na paaie en mense wat ek miskien nooit weer gaan sien nie.

Dis die sekere teken dat Naboom2Germany my lewe onherroeplik aangeraak en verander het.

Ek het oorweeg om miskien met die Trans-Karoo terug Johannesburg toe te ry nadat ek die fiets in Kaapstad gekry het. Ek het nou finaal daarteen besluit. Ek gaan die laaste 1 700 km huis toe ry. Ek sien uit na skaaptjops in die Karoo, spek en eiers soos net ons boeremense dit kan maak, roosterbrood op die stoof gemaak, en mieliepap. Regte mieliepap met melk en suiker. En elke aand, tot ek by die huis aankom, gaan ek vir oulaas oor die dag se ry op die webblad skryf.

Ek rek die lekker uit totdat dit nie meer uitrekbaar is nie.

Nou gaan ons sokker kyk.

Tonight Germany plays in the semi-final of the European Championships against Turkey. One sees German and Turkish flags everywhere. The atmosphere is laden with anticipation.

I have only five and a half days of riding in Europe left over before handing in the bike in Munich.

I have been dreaming strange dreams recently. All the dreams were about Africa. Last night I dreamt I was riding the last few hundred kilometers home. Next to the road were people standing, people that I have met during my tour and who made a big impression on me. I had a sad feeling of saying finally goodbye to those people and roads that, most probably, I would never see and travel again.

That is the best proof that Naboom2Germany touched and changed me in many ways.

I considered going back home from Cape Town by train, the Trans-Karoo, but decided against it. I am going to ride home the last 1 700 km. I look forward to Karoo lamb chops, bacon and eggs as only our people can make it. I look forward to the smell and taste of toast made on a stove, and maize porridge, mieliepap, with milk and sugar. And each night I am going to write about the day's riding...

Do you get the impression that I am stretching everything? It is true. I do stretch every minute and second left over.

Now we are going to watch soccer.

Have a great evening!

Wel gedaan Sib!

Sib het veilig en op skedule by die Noord Kaap aangekom. Vanaand kan ons ons glasies op hom lig vir sy droom wat hy geleef het. Dit sou die veertigste herdenking van hom en sy oorlede vrou se troudag gewees het.

By hom is sy dogter Liz en seun Nic.

Ou Bul, ons salueer jou!

Sib arrived safely and on schedule at North Cape. Tonight we can drink a toast on him for living a dream. On that day he and his late wife would have been married 40 years.

With him are his daughter Liz and his son Nic.

Well done Old Bull!

Nou begin alles te vinnig verby gaan!

Aan die einde van die groot toer het ek en die KLR nog die dag met die meeste kilo's ingesit: 691 km tot by my vriende Petra en Volker Schmidt in Neustadt. Dit was die langste dag in terme van afstand, nie in tyd nie.

Die langste dag in tyd was in Soedan, van Khartoem tot noord van Dongola aan die Nyl, 15 ure lank.

Petra en Volker woon in 'n baie mooi omgewing van Thuringen. Wat 'n fees vir die oog om deur woude en klein dorpies te kan ry, met 'n pad wat vir motorfietse gemaak is met die een draai na die ander.

Petra en Volker, baie dankie vir julle gasvryheid!! Geniet julle vakansie in Namibie binnekort!


Nearly at the end of my long tour I did the most kilometers within one day, 691 km. The ride was from Poland to my friends Petra and Volker Schmidt in Neustadt, Germany.

The longest day on the bike was in Sudan, however. It took me 15 hours to get from Khartoum to north of Dongola at the Nile.

Petra and Volker live in a beautiful region with darkgreen forest, beautiful villages in the Fachwerk-style, and a dream road for motorcycles with many bends.

Thank you so much for your hospitality! Enjoy your holiday in Namibia soon!

Vielen Dank an Biker Point!!

Dieser Bericht haette schon fueher erscheinen sollen, aber wie Technologie (und der Mensch!) ist, gibt es immer Ausreden.

Ich habe vor zwei Wochen mein Motorrad bei Biker Point in Altenstadt / Hessen warten lassen. Der Besitzer, Herr Gerhard Stegmann, hat mich fuer die Dauer der Wartung ein Leihmotorrad gratis zur Verfuegung gestelt. Dafuer moechte ich mich bei ihm bedanken!

Gegroet!

Naand!

Vanaand is daar ongelukkig nie baie tyd vir skryf nie. Ek deel met julle een foto van die dag se ry.

Kyk na die voorblad van die webblad (www.naboom2germany.co.za). Ek het 'n paar veranderinge aangebring. Druk jou sleutelbord se F5 knoppie vir die nuutste weergawe.

Onderaand die indeksbladsy is die horlosie vir die KLR se aankoms in die Kaap oor minder as twee weke.

Rina, baie dankie vir gisteraand se Engelse vertaling!


Good evening!

Tonight there is unfortunately not much time to write. I'll share one photograph of the riding today.

Have a look at the index page of the website (www.naboom2germany.co.za). I made a few changes. Press the F5 key on your keyboard for the newest version.

On the index page below is the clock to the arrival of the KLR in South Africa.

Rina, thank you so much for the English translation last night!

Torun, die mooiste onder die mooies

Torun = rooi kol.

Ek maak my nou skuldig aan subjektiwiteit. Dis seker maar net menslik.

Dit was 'n lang dag op die KLR. Reen. Wind. My kaart verloor. Nog 'n stad verskyn voor my. In my kom reeds die gevoel van sukkel. Sukkel om borde te vind in snaakse tale. Sukkel om op die regte pad te bly.

Die stad se naam is Torun.

Torun word vir my toe die mooiste onder die mooi wat ek al gesien het.

Net voor die stad steek die son skielik sy kop uit en verlig die stad in die mooiste geel.

Die ou blokwoonstelgeboue uit die kommunistiese tyd staan soos piramides voor my, maar hulle is nie lelik nie. Al die geboue is in die mooiste kleure geverf. Skielik lyk selfs dit vir my mooi.

Die pad in stad toe is breed. En daar is min motors. Dit voel sommer of mens in gly in die stad in, sonder moeite.

Toe kom die mooiste groot rivier met spanbrue oor, die Vistula. Die vroegaandson gee aan die water die kleur van vrede. Watter kleur is vrede? Vir my was dit goud-bruin-blou-groen, die water van die Vistula.

Die pad vat my nog 'n paar draaie deur die stad. Ou geboue. Mooi geboue. 'n Oustad-gedeelte wat uitnooi om te stop. Hotelle, modern en oud, iets vir elke smaak.

In die oustad-gedeelte (medieval old town, as my Afrikaans snaaks klink) is Kopernikus gebore. Dit is ook gelys op Unesco se Wereld Erfenis Lys (kappie op e)

Ek kom by 'n groot sirkel, ry tweekeer om die sirkel, nie omdat ek pad soek nie maar om die 360 grade panorama te geniet.

Ek stop 'n paar keer vir 'n foto. Deur die lens kry ek nie die gevoel van die laatmiddagson, outydse grasie en die wonderlike argitektuur nie. Ek sit finaal die kamera weg sonder om een foto te neem. Dit is eerder tyd vir kopfoto's.

Toe ek daar wegry, voel ek vergenoegd, tevrede. Hoe beskryf mens die skoonheid van 'n vrou? Jy kan nie. Vir die volgende een mag sy minder mooi wees.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Ek het Torun op my lys gesit van plekke wat ek weer sal wil besoek, soos St. Petersburg en die Amber Room.

Torun, the most beautiful of all.

I am making myself guilty of subjectivity. It is probably human.

It was a long day on the KLR. Rain. Wind. I lost my map. As another city appeared before me, a feeling of unease settled in me. I had trouble finding direction on signboards in strange languages. I had trouble staying on the correct road.

The city’s name is Torun.

Torun then became the most beautiful of all the places that I have seen.

Just before I entered the city, the sun came up and lit up the city in the most beautiful yellow.

The old blocks of flat dating back to the Communistic era, stood like the pyramids in front of me, but they were not ugly. Al the buildings were painted in the most beautiful colours. Suddenly, even that looked beautiful to me.

The road leading into the city was broad. And there were very few cars. It almost felt like a person was gliding effortlessly into the city.

Then, the most beautiful river with bridges over appeared before me, the Vistula. The early evening sun gave the water the colour of peace. What is the colour of peace? For me it was the gold-brown-blue-green, the water of the Vistula.

The dwindling road took me through the city. Old buildings. Beautiful buildings. A medieval part of town that invited one to stop. Hotels, modern and old, something for everyone. Copernicus was born in the medieval part of town. It is also listed on the Unesco World Heritage List.

I then arrived at a large circle, drove around it twice, not because I was searching for a road, but to enjoy the 360 degree panoramic view.

I stopped a couple of times for photos. But through the lens I couldn’t capture the feeling of the late afternoon sun, old time grace and the wonderful architecture. I finally put away the camera without taking a photo. It was rather time to take headphotos.

When I drove of, I felt content, satisfied. How does one describe the beauty of a woman? You can’t. For the next one she might be less beautiful.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I have put Torun on my list of places to revisit, like St. Petersburg and the Amber Room.

'n Winderige nat dag in Pole.

So lyk 'n snelweg in Pole. Boomomsoomd. Pragtig. Die pad het van een dorpie na 'n ander gevleg. Vergeet van stres. Vergeet van vinniger as 70 km/h ry.

This is a highway in Poland. An alley of trees. Slinging between towns. Beautiful. Forget about stress. Forget about riding faster than 70 km / h.

Dit het my reeds verlede week opgeval dat die Poolse begraafplase mey blomme oorlaai was. Vandag het die blomme my weer opgeval. Ek moes eenvoudig net stop om die pragtige grafte af te neem. Kyk na die blou hemel daar agter, Groot onweer was op pad.

While travelling through Poland the beautiful graveyards struck me. Nearly all the graves had flowers on. Today it was the same. I had to stop to take a few photographs. Look at the dark heaven. A heavy storm was on its way.

Ek is eenvoudig gek na die kaal platteland waar mens die wind deur die gras kan hoor, die woud kan ruik, waar jy kaalvoet in 'n aarbeiland kan loop sonder om waardigheid in te boet.

I love the countryside where one can hear the music of the wind through the grass, where you can smell the freshly cut timber, where one can walk bare-footed in a strawberry field without losing dignity.

Fotos van Letland / Photos of Latvia

Die grondpad is soos medisyne vir die gees / The open road is medicine for the soul

Soet aarbeie / Sweet strawberries

KLR & Mig

Die grondpad is soos medisyne vir die gees.

Naand!

Toe ek vanoggend weg is uit Riga was ek taamlik geirriteerd oor die e-posse en omdat ek nie die webblad kan opdateer nie. As ek so voel, help net een ding: Grondpad en woude en vlaktes en alleen wees.

Ek het van die teerpad afgedraai en binne minute was ek weg in die Letlandse taiga en toendra. Die een perdeplaas na die ander het langs die grondpad gelê. Toe ek in die woud gekom het, het die bome soms die bewolkte hemel bo toegemaak. Groot stapels boomstompe het langs die pad gelê, met hul eiesoortige reuk.

Ek het by die dorpie Vecumnieki gestop. Op die lande het vroue gewerk. Ek het nader gestap. Dit was aartappels, uie, ertjies, aarbeie. Groot soet aarbeie. Ek het sommer dadelik 'n klompie persent gekry om daar op die land te eet. Die een vrou wou vir my 'n houertjie saamgee maar dit was onmoontlik op die fiets.

Hulle vrolikheid het my beneuktheid omgedraai in 'n groot vreugde om daar te kan wees, om daar te ry en 'n lewe te ervaar waarvan ons so bittermin weet. Ek het aan die houtkruisie geraak en dankie gesê.

Letland het oor die laaste paar dae stadig maar seker in my siel ingekruip. Die ongelooflike groen en vrugbaarheid van die grond laat my aan die paradys dink. Hulle markte is vol van die mooiste vrugte en groente. En die belangrikste, hulle is nie bang vir werk nie.

Dit was erge sinkplaatpad maar die KLR het oor die hobbels gevlieg en ek het 'n baie lekker rit gehad.

Teen laatoggend het dit begin reën. Reën soos in sop, sopnat reën. Ek het vir meer as vyf uur so gery. As jy eenkeer nat is, dan is dit nie meer belangrik hoe lank mens op die fiets sit nie.

Ek is verby 'n vliegveldjie waar 'n klompie Mig's uitgestal staan, Mig 21 en 23"s. Dit was goeie Russiese vegvliegtuie.

Rusland is nie meer vir my 'n verlies nie. Letland, Litaue en Pole is so 'n nuwe ontdekking vir my. Ek sal graag wil terugkom eendag.

En die KLR ry en ry en ry. Ek raak by die dag net liewer vir die fiets.

Lekker aand!


Good evening!

As I left Riga this morning my bad mood about the emails and the website that I cannot update hadn't settled down. Then only one thing helped: Gravel road, forests, green fields and no people around me.

II swung the KLR from the tar road and within minutes the Latvian taiga and tundra swallowed me. I rode past horse farms. Then in the forest big tree trunks were lying next to the track with that typical wood smell in the air.

I got to the village Vecumnieki. On the fields women were busy working, bent down, hard manual labour. I stopped and walked to them. On the fields were onions, potatoes, peas and strawberries. Big red sweet strawberries. The one lady immediately offered me strawberries, which I ate just there. The offered me a little basket full of strawberries, but is was impossible to take it with on the bike.

Their cheerfulness put my own bad mood to shame. I realised again how privileged I am to experience a country and a lifestyle we know so little about. I touched the wooden cross at the handlebar and said thank you.

The track was badly corrugated but the KLR flew over the ruts and I had a wonderful ride.

Then it started raining, pouring rain that got all my clothes wet. I rode for more than 5 hours in the rain. When one is wet then time doesn't play a role anymore. One cannot get wetter than wet.

I rode past an airfield where Mig fighter aircraft were exhibited. There were Mig 21 and 23's. Those aircraft were brilliant Russian fighter aircraft.

What can I say about the KLR. It just goes on and on and on.

Enjoy your evening!

Images from Riga, capital of Latvia

Dit was 'n stamperige ry in Riga in.

It was a bumpy ride into Riga.

Op 'n sekere brug sluit pasgetroude pare 'n slot met hulle name en troudatum aan die reling. Simboliseer dit sekuriteit (of ewige gevangenskap :-)

On a certain bridge in Riga couples that just got married lock a lock to the bridge as a symbol of ... security? (or imprisonment ? :-)

Riga - Letland

Naand!

Ek is vanaand ligweg geirriteer, vir burokrasie, vir tegnologie, vir die web hosting maatskappy in Suid-Afrika. Vir 'n derde keer het al my e-posse net spoorloos van my mailserver verdwyn.

AS JY DUS 'N E-POS AAN MY GESTUUR HET, DIT IS WEG, ONGELEES. STUUR ASB. WEER.


Good evening!

Tonight I am irritated. I am irritated by buerocracy, technology and my web hosting company in South Africa. For the third time on this tour all my emails, read and unread, just disappeared from the mail server.

IF YOU HAVE SENT ME AN EMAIL TODAY IT IS GONE. I HAVEN'T SEEN OR READ IT. PLEASE SEND AGAIN.

Letlandse ontbyt

Gisteraand het die gasvrou my in haar Russies probeer verduidelik dat ontbyt vanoggend om 7 sou wees. (Ons is 'n uur voor Suid-Afrika).

Sewe-uur is ek by die voordeur, gereed vir eet.

Verkeerd. Sy kom uit met twee handdoeke en druk dit in my hande. Ek beduie van eet en sy skud haar kop. Njet!

Sy neem my na 'n afskorting en beduie ek moet my klere uittrek en handdoek ombind. Ek kon nie glo dat dit is hoe mens ontbyt in Letland eet nie!

Toe sy om die hoek stap, trek ek vinnig uit en sit die handdoek om. Ook net betyds. Sy kom haal my en lei my verby die ontbyttafel, sauna toe!

So begin my dag toe alleen in 'n sauna. Dit was eintlik lekker. Dit het net lank gevat om aan die sweet te kom want na Khartoem se hitte bly alles vir my koel.

Dit is vir my die lekkerte van 'n reis. Soveel dinge gebeur op jou pad wat jy nie verwag nie. Soos 'n sauna voor ontbyt.

Ek is nou borrelend van energie vir die ry, heel moontlik rigting Riga toe.

PS Wie in Naboom het 'n sauna wat ek mag gebruik?

Onthou om op foto's te kliek

Letland - Woensdag se foto's

Onthou julle Prinses, 'n inskrywing van baie maande terug? Ek hou nou intens die ooievaars dop, en hier is baie, en baie wat broei met kleintjies in die nes.

Do you remember the post about Princess many months ago? Now I am watching the storks with big interest. Here are many, and many nests with small ones.

Na die grensteleurstelling het ek letterlik die grondpaaie gevat en net gery, doelloos en geesloos.

After the big disappointment at the border I took the gravel roads and rode, without aim or purpose.

Ek is beloon met hierdie gesig. Dit is 'n baie afgelee gebied. Hierdie vragmotor met kruideniersware ry van dorpie na dorpie en verkoop die goed langs die pad. Ek kon eers nie verstaan hoekom ou tannies in die lang gras of onder die bome net gesit en wag het nie. Die dametjie hier voor het met haar man en dogtertjie op 'n klein motorfietsie gekom.

I was rewarded with this sight. It is real outback here. This truck goes from village to village and sells groceries to the people waiting next to the road. That explained to me the many old ladies sitting in the grass or under trees, waiting. The young lady in front came with her little daughter and husband, all three on one small motorcycle.

Sy verkoop en bestuur die trok.

She sells and drives the truck.

Heelwat later die middag. Hierdie twee is Russe, deel van die Russiese minderheid in Letland. Hy wou pertinent met sy hand op die windskerm staan. Wie redeneer met 'n man wat so 'n byl vashou?

Many hours later. These two are Russians, part of the Russian minority in Latvia. He was determined to keep his hand on the fairing. Who argues with a man carrying such an axe?

Hul pel was so gekletter hy kon skaars staan. Hy wou afgeneem word met my sonbril op, helm en handskoene in sy hand. Wie redeneer met 'n dronk Rus as sy vriend 'n groot byl vashou?

Their friend was gone, although he was still with them. He demanded to be photographed with my glasses on, helmet and gloves in his hands. Who argues with a drunk if his friend is carrying an axe?

Hier het ek klassieke potretfoto's geneem. Dit is die nuutste Mooiloop wat sy deurblaai.

This was a photographer's paradise. I took many photographs. She is paging through the latest Mooiloop.

KLR op Ruslandgrens, word nie toegelaat

Naand!

Dis die treurige waarheid. Ek is nie in Rusland toegelaat nie. En dit na 15 000 km. Redes? Dit het alles begin by die mense wat nog steeds 'n helse muur in hul koppe het en nie wyer mag dink nie.

Neem jou voertuigregistrasiesertifikaat. Kyk na die tweede lyn van bo. Voertuigregisternommer. Hoe verklaar jy vir 'n Rus wat die verskil tussen 'n Voertuigregisternommer en 'n voertuigregistrasienommer is?

Die mense sien net registrasiedokumente uit Europa, en enige ander dokument is vir hulle bedrog. Wat nog van 'n dokument uit Suid-Afrika waar die Voertuigregisternommer nie die registrasienommer is nie?

Ek was bitter teleurgesteld. Nou soek ek die positiewe in die situasie, en daar is baie.

1) Nou kom ek beslis terug om oor Siberie te ry, die volle 12 000 km.
2) Ek het nou soveel meer tyd om Letland, Litaue en Pole te leer ken.

Ek haal my hoed af vir die KLR wat my tot op die Russiese grens gedra het. Slegte nuus vir die Russe: Ons kom terug!



Good evening!

Yes, that is the sad reality. I travelled 15 000 km just to be blocked off at the Russian border. The reasons for the refusal? It all started with the big wall that so many people still have in their heads and where independent thinking is still not allowed.

Take your South African vehicle registration paper. Look at the second line from the top. Vehicle Register Number. How doen one explain to a Russian that a Vehicle Register Number is not the vehicle registration number? Impossible!

These guys at the border see only registration documents from Europe. Anything else is forged, Especially if it is from far south of the equator!

I was bitterly disappointed. I tried to figure out what could be positive in the whole situation and found out there is a lot!

1) I am more than ever motivated to come and ride across Siberia, the whole 12 000 km!
2) I have more time now to discover Latvia, Lithuania and Poland.

I salute the KLR for carrying me this far. Bad news for Russia: We will be back!

Syfers, getalle, liters

Vir die manne wat in die tegniese deel belangstel: Tot vanoggend toe het die KLR 14 997.4 kilometer op die toer afgele, 660.126 liter brandstof verbruik vir 'n gemiddeld van 22.72 km/l, of 4.4 l/100 km.

For those interested in figures: The KLR has done since the start of the tour 14 997.4 km, used 660.126 liters of fuel, with an average of 22.72 km/l or 4.4 l/100 km.

Die KLR nou in Letland!

Die trek gaan aan, rigting noord. / The trek continues, always north.

Van daar het ek gekom toe die teerpad opgehou het. / From there I came after the tar road had stopped.

Ek wou mos Afrika se alleentes mis! / The result of missing the wide open spaces of Africa.

Ek kom toe op die eensame boerehuis af. / I saw this farm house and turned off the track.

Fontein, twee emaljebrekers, sitbank. Soos in Soedan. / A well, two mugs, a wooden bench. Like in the Sudan.

Vuurmaakhout vir die bitter lang, donker, koue maande wat binnekort begin. / Firewood for the long, dark and cold months that will be here soon.

Mens kon ruik waarvoor die klein huisie gebruik word. / One could smell for what this little wooden structure is being used for.

Waar is die mense heen? Daar was nie 'n mens in sig nie. / Where did the people go? There was no one in the vicinity.

Die KLR merk nog 'n land op sy tenk af: Letland. / The KLR ticked off another country visited: Latvia.

In 'n klein dorpie het ek gestopvir 'n soet broodjie, stukkie wors, en 'n Coke. Alhoewel die son geskyn het, was daar min krag in die suidsonnetjie. / In this small village I stopped for a sweet bread bun, piece of sausage and a Coke. The sun was shining but there was no heat in this southern sun.

Dik aangetrek in die son. Almal om my was ewe dik aangetrek. / I am sitting with many layers of clothing. Also the villagers were clothed warmly.

Ukmerge (Litaue) tot Rezekne (Letland)

Vandag was ‘n Russiese dag. Nie wat die taal betref nie maar hoe die dag afgeloop het.

Laasnag het ek aanmekaar bly nies. Die groen velde gee my ‘n reuse hooikoors.

Ek het in gietende reën begin te ry. My reenbaadjie uit Nairobi se tyd het die gees gegee.

Weer het die teerpad opgehou en die keer is ek vir meer as ‘n uur oor ‘n grondpad oor heuwels en deur valleie. So het ek baie meer van die lewe op die platteland kon sien.

Ek het WEER ‘n afrit gemis, die keer in Dwinsk, Letland.

Dit reën nou weer.

Voor julle dink ek kla, dit was ‘n wonderlike dag! Al die goed wat ek hier bo genoem het, is die bewys dat ek die voorreg het om in ‘n baie, baie vreemde deel van die wêreld te mag reis.

Ek het as kind miskien te veel Heinz Konsalikboeke met Ruslandtemas gelees. Vandag deur die verlate dele van Letland het ek al hoe meer die gees van die Konsalikboeke begin te verstaan.

Ek is vanmiddag oor die grens Letland in, die laaste land voor Rusland. Dit is by verre die meer armoedige land waardeur ek in Europa gereis het. Ek het die vroue gebuk op die lande sien werk, ek het die ou vrou met gumboots haar koei sien aanjaag, ek het die perdekar gesien wat moet instaan waar die geldjie vir ‘n motor nie genoeg is nie. Ek het deur dorpies gery waar die 21ste eeu nog lank nie aangekom het nie.

Die toerisme infrastrukuur is in Letland swak vergeleke met Pole. Ook in Litaue is dit maar skraps maar beter as hier in Letland.

Ek het soms vandag daardie alleen gevoel gekry wat ek ‘n paar keer in Afrika gehad het. Hierdie wêreld is groot en die mense min.

More oggend baie vroeg wil ek by die Russiese grens wees. Ten spyte van my Russiese visum is daar geen waarborg hulle gaan my as enkelreisiger inlaat nie. Die Koue Oorlog is verby. In die koppe van die mense vat dit egter baie langer.

Ek moet gou om verskoning vra dat ek nie op e-posse antwoord nie. Internet is duur en skaars en nie altyd vinnig nie.

Ukmerge (Lithuania) to Rezekne (Latvia)

Today was a Russian day. Not in regards of language but in the way the day progressed.

Last night I sneezed continuously. The lavish green fields are giving me hay fever.

I started riding in pouring rain. My raincoat that dates back to the time spent in Nairobi has perished.

Again the tar road ended, and this time I spent more than an hour on a dirt road riding over hills and through valleys.

AGAIN I missed an offramp, this time in Dwinsk, Latvia.

It is raining again.

Before you think I am complaining, it was a wonderful day! Al of the above mentioned, is proof that I am privileged to be travelling in a very, very unfamiliar part of the world.

As child I might have read too many Heinz Konsalik books with Russian themes. Today, through the deserted parts of Latvia, I started to understand the spirit of the Konsalik books, more and more.

This afternoon I crossed the border into Latvia, the last country before Russia. It is by far the most underprivileged country in Europe through which I have travelled. I saw woman working bent-over in the fields, I saw an old lady with gumboots on shepherding her cow, I saw the horse cart that had to stand in where there is no money for a car. I rode through towns where the 21st century has long not arrived yet.

The tourism infrastructure of Latvia is poor in comparison to Poland. In Lithuania it is also inadequate, but better than in Latvia.

During today, I occasionally got that lonely feeling that I experienced a couple of times in Africa. This country is big and the people few.

I want to be at the Russian border tomorrow morning very early. In spite of my Russian visa is there no guarantee that they will allow me entry as a single traveller. The Cold War is over. In the minds of the people it takes longer.

I have to apologise that I can’t answer e-mails. Internet is expensive, scarce and not always fast.