Sunday, April 13, 2008

Sondag


Ethiopiese Hoogland


Die Blou Nyl / The Blue Nile


Beginpunt: Addis Adaba

Eindpunt: Debra Markos

Afstand: 295 km

Vandag was ‘n dag wat alles gebied het: Sonskyn, vir 140 km ‘n droom van ‘n teerpad, 155 km van alles wat nie ‘n droompad is nie, nl. grond, klip, teer, slaggate, golwe in die teer, stof en nogmaals stof.

Dit was Sondag en die mense was op straat: In hul hande kinders, bokke, skaappote en hoenders, koffie, gewere. Langs die pad ‘n paar keer manne wat met geboëe hoofde voor ‘n kerk in die verte gestaan het, biddend voor hulle nader gegaan het.

Donkies het met swaar gelaaide rûe voor hul eienaars uitgedraf. Maer perde en beeste het op kaal grond ‘n stukkie graskos probeer vind.

Die hoogtepunt was die Blou Nyl. ‘n Groot canyon het voor ons oopgegaan, met die pad wat slingerend afgesak het tot onder op die canyonvloer. Die Blou Nyl was eerder rooi, maar dit het nie saakgemaak nie. Die KLR is oor die Nyl vir die eerste keer. Om weer op die hoogland te kom was dit eerste en tweede rat en grond en stof vir baie lank. My longe het vanaand ‘n stukkie Ethiopië in hulle.

Behalwe vir die Blou Nylbedding was ons vir die res van die dag op ‘n hoogte tussen 2400 m en 2854 m bo seespieël. Maandag is dit die Tanameer, nog so 300 km van hier. Hopenlik he tons dan waswater.

Groete van die Ethiopiese Hooglande.

Start: Addis Adaba

Destination: Debra Markos

Distance: 295 km

Today we had everything that a traveler could wish for: Sunshine, the best tar road for 140 km, for 155 km everything that we didn’t have for the first 140 km: Gravel road, dust, dust, bit of tar, waves in the tar, potholes.

It was Sunday and humanity filled the roads. In their hands they had children, chickens, goats, sheep, coffee, guns. A few times men stood with bowed heads in front of a church, praying, before they went inside.

Donkeys, the worst-treated animals on the continent, were walking next to the road, carrying loads that were close to back-breaking weight. Horses and cattle, skinny like skeletons, tried to find something to eat on soil that had nothing but stones to offer.

The highlight of the day was the Blue Nile. A massive canyon opened up in front of us. Far below we could see the river, more red than blue. The road snaked down, it turned into gravel and dust and loose stones. The KLR crossed the Nile for the first time. To get back onto the highlands it was first or second gear all the way over gravel and through dust. Tonight my lungs have a red-brown coating, dirty Ethiopian dust.

We are traveling on a high altitude. Except for down at the river bed the rest of the day we were between 2400 m and 2854 m above sea level. On Monday it is again 300 km to ride to reach Lake Tana. Hopefully we will then have water to wash.

Greetings from the Ethiopian Highlands!

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