Interessante medereisigers

Peter van der Linden is 'n skraal, seningrige mens met meestal 'n sigaar wat so lekker ruik, in sy mond. Altyd naby hom is sy enigste dogter Tessa, 'n 18-jarige leerling wat nou 'n jaar van haar skool afgeneem het om saam met haar pa op hierdie tien maande lange reis deur Afrika te kom.


Hul getroue vervoermiddel is 'n omgeboude trok wat hulle huis vir die volle tien maande geword het. Peter slaap links agter in sy kamer op die bak en Tessa 'n entjie dieper in aan die regterkant. Die trok is goed toegerus en vanoggend het ek 'n heerlike beker filterkoffie by Peter gekry.


Met die aansitslag probeer die trok Peter oortref met die hoeveelheid rook wat hy op die kant uitstoot, 'n regte Van Hunkstorie in Afrika.

Peter en Tessa het vanaf Holland Afrika op die moeilike wesroete aangedurf. Na 'n paar maande het hulle in Kaapstad aangekom. Peter beskryf dit as die groot hoogtepunt van hul toer tot dusver.

Dat hulle lief is vir Afrika sien mens dadelik aan die naam wat op die kant van die trok geverf is: www.beenafonafrica.nl (.) Hulle druk met die naam uit wat hulle voel: Been-af op Afrika. Die uitdrukking het hul doelbewus uit Afrikaans oorgeneem.

Peter kan nie ophou praat oor die gasvryheid wat hulle in Suid-Afrika beleef het nie. Sy grootste eet-indruk is 'n bierkiep, 'n hoender wat gebraai word op'n blikkie bier wat in die hoender se anatomie ingedruk is.

Dit was nie hul eerste besoek aan Suid-Afrika nie en beslis ook nie hul laaste nie.

Hulle gaan heel moontlik so 'n dag of twee agter my wees wanneer ek hier uit Nairobi vertrek. Ek sien regtig uit na nog 'n nag of twee se kuier met die twee wonderlike mense voordat ons paaie heel moontlik in Ethiopie gaan verdeel.

Goede reis Peter en Tessa!

Interesting fellow travelers

Peter van der Linden is a thin, stringy man, mostly with a nice smelling cigar in his mouth. Always nearby, is his only daughter, Tessa, an 18 year-old student that took a year off from school to accompany her father on this ten month journey through Africa. (Photo 1)

Their faithful transporter is a converted Bedford truck; it is their home for the full ten months. Peter sleeps to the left in his room on the back of the truck, and Tessa a little deeper in to the right. The truck is well equipped and this morning I got a delicious mug of filter coffee from Peter. (Photo 2)

At starting up, the truck tries to compete with Peter in the amount of smoke that it expels from the side, a real Van Hunk story in Africa.

Peter and Tessa travelled down Africa on the difficult west coast route. After a few months they reached Cape Town and Peter describes it as the highlight of their tour so far.

You can clearly see their love for Africa in the name that is painted on the side of the truck: www.beenafonafrica.nl (.) With this name they express their feelings: ‘Been-af op Afrika’ (In love with Africa). The expression was deliberately derived from Afrikaans.

Peter can’t stop talking about the hospitality that they experienced in South Africa. The ‘bierkiep’ (beer-chick) made the biggest food-impression on him. It is a chicken that is braaied with a can of beer that is pushed into its anatomy.

It was definitely not their last to South Africa and Africa.

They are going to be a day or two behind me when I depart from Nairobi. I am really looking forward to seeing them again on the road, possibly in Ethiopia, before our tracks go two different directions...

Goede reis Peter en Tessa!

Miniatuur video'tjie (2)

Money money! (430 kb)

Die dames onderhandel vir geld voor ek mag foto neem.
The two ladies are explaining how much I had to pay for a photograph.

Miniatuur video'tjie

412 kb - Sounds of Africa

Kenia - Nairobi (2)

En ek het my eerste kamele gesien!

I saw the first camels as well!

Kenia - Nairobi

Beginpunt: Arusha, Tanzanie
Eindpunt: Nairobi, Kenia
Afstand: 285 km

Gisteraand het ek geskryf dat die pad Nairobi toe my laaste maklike pad in 'n lang tyd gaan wees. Hoe verkeerd was ek nie. Dit was een van die hardste dae vir my KLR tot nou toe. Gate, gate nog 'n keer, water, modder, vassit. Dit het my 'n hele dag geneem om slegs 285 km te ry.

Last night I wrote that the road to Nairobi would have been one of my last easy days for a while. How wrong I was! Today was one of the hardest days for my bike: Potholes, more potholes, sand, mud, water. It took me a whole day to complete only 285 km.

Dit het die hele nag gereen tot laat oggend. 'n Flitsgolf het hier die pad onrybaar gemaak. Ten minste vier groot vragmotors het reeds in die modder vasgesit.

It rained the whole night till late this morning. A flash flood turned the road into an impassable mess. As I got there at least four huge trucks were bogged down.

Ek het besluit om links van die geel en wit trok verby te gaan. My fiets het net weggesak in die modder en water en ek was vas. Twee van die manne het van agter gestoot en ek het vet gegee. Glyend is ek tot op vaste grond.

I decided to ride through to the left of this truck. I got stuck in the mud and two of the men on the photograph had to help me to push the bike while I gave gas. Sliding I reached firmer ground.

Ek moes natuurlik vir die foto betaal.

Yes, I had to pay to take this photograph.

Meer voertuie sit vas, die keer in Kenia.

More vehicles bogged down. This time in Kenya.



Oor die grens episode skryf ek eerder niks nie. Ek is so goed en behoorlik deur 'n swyn met geldwissel verneuk dat ek twee dae se begrotingsgeld verloor het. Dit maak seer.

Ek het Nairobi van die weste genader, nie met die hoofpad nie. Ek het slums beleef soos min. Mens kon die afval en verval ruik. Ek moes talle kere my pad tussen voetgangers, mal bestuurders en reuse slaggate in eerste rat deurvoel. Dit was onmoontlik om te stop om 'n foto te neem.

Ek is nou by Jungle Junction in Nairobi, 'n paradys vir regte overlanders. Ek het lekker vanaand met vier Hollanders gesit en kuier. Een egpaar is op pad suid, en 'n pa en sy dogter is Afrika weskus langs suid en nou ooskus langs noord. Die egpaar ry met 'n Landcruiser en pa en dogter met 'n omboude trok.

Drie rusdae wag nou vir my. Groete

About the money changing at the border I rather write nothing. I was cheated so brilliantly. I still cannot believe it. I lost two days' money. It hurts.

I approached Nairobi from the west, not via the main road. I experienced slums like I've never seen before. One could smell the decay. So often I had to find my way through thousands of pedestrians, mad drivers and massive potholes in first gear. Unfortunately I could not stop to take any photographs.


I am staying at Jungle Junction, a paradise for real overlanders. I spent an enjoyable evening with four Dutch people. One couple in a Landcruiser is on their way south, and the other two, a father and daughter, came down west and return to the Netherlands via the east coast. The are traveling in a big truck.

I have three rest days now. Bye for now!

Dag van eerstes

Ek het vanoggend vir eerste keer in modder in rivier vasgesit, en ek is met negentig dollar op Tanzaniese grens verneuk! Ek was so idioties! Today a day of firsts. I got stuck in mud for first time, and I lost ninety Us dollar at border due to my own stupidity!

English translations

Rina Bondesio is doing the English translations for us. Thank you Rina!

The translations have been added to the diaries of Tuesday and Wednesday.

Tanzanië - Arusha

Tipiese straattoneel / Typical street scene in one of the Tanzanian villages.

En dit is Kilimanjaro. Slegs die voet van die berg steek onder die wolke uit.
Kilimanjaro, cloud-covered. What a pity!

Ek het gedink my fiets is oorlaai / I thought my bike was carrying too much.

Vrydag 28 Maart

Beginpunt: Segera

Eindpunt: Arusha

Afstand: 367 km

Vanaand is my laaste aand in Tanzanië.

Ek het kuier-kuier tot in Arusha gery. Na gister se groot afstand (vir my in Afrika) was dit lekker om net te sit en ontspan.

Kilimanjaro was toe onder die wolke. Wat ‘n jammerte!

Ek is nou in Arusha en gaan my vanaand met ‘n lekker ete bederf. Miskien Chinees.

Ek begin die wear en tear van twee weke op die pad te merk. My rybaadjie ruik nie net nie, ek kan selfs die vuil aan dit sien. Dit geld ook vir my t-hemde. Ek gaan in Nairobi werklik moeite doen om alles skoon te kry.

Ek wil nou eerder oor die KLR skryf.

Ek gaan die fiets in Nairobi diens, olie en oliefilter vervang, en sommer net goed deurgaan. Miskien ook die remskoene vervang. Ek ry ‘n stel saam, en as mens dit nou insit, is my bagasie nog ‘n stukkie ligter.

Die fiets doen nog steeds meer as 20 km / liter. Die ryspoed speel ‘n groot rol. Nou na meer as 5 000 km sedert die laaste diens was dit nog nie nodig om enigsins olie by te voeg nie. Die olieverbruik was minimaal.

Ek het vandag besluit om bietjie afstand te rek wat petrol betref. Ek het glad nie langs die pad volgemaak nie. Die fiets het nou 367 km op die tenk gery en nog glad nie op reserwe (na ongeveer 17 liter) gegaan nie. Dit beteken dat ek teoreties nog ten minste 6 – 7 liter in die tenk het wat nog voldoende sou wees vir ‘n verdere 120 – 140 km.

Die bande, Michelin Anakee, en die ketting en “sprockets” is nog steeds in ‘n goeie toestand. Ek behoort Kairo daarmee te kan bereik.

Ek hoop dat Kawasaki die 21 jaar oue model KLR nog lank in produksie gaan hou. Ek raak net al hoe liewer vir die groot eensilinder.

Ek het nog net so 300 km van relatiewe goeie pad oor voor die eerste groot toets kom, Noord-Kenia. Nie net is dit ‘n klipharde klip woestynroete nie, daar is ook nog die Somaliese afvalliges wat daar rondswerf.

Groete!

PS Arusha is die halfpadmerk tussen die Kaap en Kairo.

Tonight is my last night in Tanzania.

I rode totally relaxed today. After the long distance of yesterday I enjoyed every minute of the ride today.

I couldn’t see anything of Kilimanjaro. What a pity!

I am in Arusha now. I am going to spoil me with a good meal tonight. Perhaps Chinese.

I start noticing the wear and tear of two weeks on the road. My riding jacket not only smells, I can see the dirt on it. That includes my t-shirts as well. In Nairobi I will make an effort to get everything clean.

I am going to service the bike in Nairobi, oil change and oil filter. I am also going to replace the brake pads. I was carrying an extra set until now. Using it will make my luggage lighter.

The bike still averages more than 20 km per liter. The biggest contributing factor is the riding speed. The conditions and speed limit limit one to 80 – 90 km/h. It is more than 5 000 km since the last oil change. It wasn’t necessary to add any oil during the trip. The oil consume was minimal.

Today I decided not to fill up petrol along the way. I reached Arusha after 367 km without going on reserve, which is normally after 17 liters. That means the bike has at least 6 – 7 liters still in the tank, if not more, which would be sufficient for another 120 – 140 km.

The tyres, Michelin Anakee, and the chain and sprockets are still fine. I should reach Cairo without problems.

One can only trust that Kawasaki will keep the 21 year old KLR model in production. I am getting more and more fond of this big one cylinder.

I still have about 300 km of relative good roads before the first crunch comes: Northern Kenya. It is a very hard desert route, especially the rocks and stones. Adding to that there are the Somalian bandits roaming the emptiness.

Regards!

PS Arusha is halfway between the Cape and Cairo.

Ruskans langs die pad

Harde musiek, mense wat loop en eet en kuier.

Foto's

Ek het nog foto's by die week se inskrywings bygesit.

Baie dankie vir almal wat vir my geskryf het. Ek antwoord waar ek kan maar of alle antwoorde by julle uitkom, weet ek nie. Moet asb. nie ophou skryf nie!

I added photographs by the entries of this week.

I have to apologize that for two two entries there are no English translations. Last night I sat in darkness typing out the Afrikaans entries. I had electricity for three hours but no light to work in!

Thank you for all the messages received. I reply where and when I can. However, it seems that many replies disappear into the African sky. Please do not stop writing!

Donderdag 27 Maart - Tanzanië

Die KLR storm dapper voort / The KLR marches on.

Daai bruin dingetjie in die verte is 'n kameelperd / The brown spot in the distance is a giraffe.

My daaglikse middagete, ses piesangs / My daily lunch, six bananas

Vir kort het die son geskyn. Ek drink my coke in die KLR skaduwee / The sun was out for a short while. I drank my coke in the shade of the KLR.

(English below)

Donderdag 27 Maart

Beginpunt: The Old Farmhouse, Kisolanza

Eindpunt: Segera

Afstand: 609 km

Vandag was ‘n heerlike, mooi, lang, uitputtende en met dankbaarheid gevulde dag.

Ek het vroeg begin te ry, sewe-uur Tanzaniese tyd. Die son was net uit. Die eerste 250 km was baie berg-op en af tot mens finaal in die Groot Skeurvallei afgesak het.

Hoekom ‘n dag van dankbaarheid? Die Here het my bewaar van wat ‘n tragiese ongeluk kon gewees het.

In een van die valleie het ‘n motor en drie busse van voor gekom. Almal wat al hier was, weet die busse ry nie. Hulle jaag. Doodsveragtend. Om een of ander rede het die motor skielik begin stop. Die drie busse kon niks anders doen as om op die laaste oomblik uit te swaai reg in my baan nie. Die ergste was om te sien hoe die een bus na die ander se stertkante te begin gly. Die neuse het na my regterkant probeer stuur, die agterkante het na links begin gly. Omdat dit ‘n vallei was, kon ek nie van die skouer padgee nie. Die verste wat die die busse aan verby my is, was een meter.

Ek het net gestop en boontoe gekyk.

Onder in die vallei kon ek net verstom kyk na die grootsheid van die berge wat langs en voor my gelê het. Die Groot Skeurvallei …

Ek het 50km deur die Mikumi Nasionale Park gery wat die noordelike punt van die Selous Game Reserve vorm. Ek was so gelukkig en het vier troppe olifante, baie kameelperde (ook van daardie donkeres wat mens altyd op die foto’s van Tanzanië sien), een vlakvark en baie rooibokke gesien!

So teen drie het die wolke begin saampak en het dit begin sous! Die grond was deurweek en in die dorpies het die water rooi tussen die hutte gestaan. Mens en dier het beteuterd deur die modder geploeg. My moed het gesak. Ek was nie lus om my tentjie in die rooi pap modder op te slaan nie. Ek het weer saggies vir die Here vir ‘n slaapplek gevra. Net voor donker, in gietende reën, op die kruising waar mens links na Arusha afdraai, staan toe die antwoord op my skietgebed: ‘n Afrikagastehuis.

Ek het elektrisiteit in my kamer, ek kan vanaand alles laai. Die stortwater was ‘n bruin vogtigheid, maar ek gee nie meer om nie. Gaan lees weer my reisfilosofie. Dit beteken nie dat ek nou ‘n geharde Afrikareisiger is nie. Inteendeel. Ek gee net nie vanaand om nie want ek kan droog slaap.

More behoort ek verby Kilimanjaro te ry. Met al die reën weet ek nie of ek die koningsberg gaan sien nie.

Ek gaan vanaand dankbaar slaap.

Today was a wonderful, beautiful, long day, filled with gratefulness.

I left early, 7.00 AM Tanzanian time, shortly after sunrise.

The first 250km was mountainous. Going down the Great Rift Valley was beautiful. The road was challenging with many ascends and descents. That Tanzania was so mountainous was quite a surprise to me.

Why a day filled with gratefulness? The Lord saved me from what could have been a very tragic accident.

In one of the valleys a car and three busses came from the front, down a hill. Everyone that was already here knows that the busses are racing like mad, death defying monsters. Suddenly the car decided to stop. The busses had no time to slow down. To avoid hitting the car from behind all three swerved over into my lane. The front ends of the busses tried to get back into the left lane while the tail ends were gradually swerving more towards me. As I was in a valley there was no room to my left. I went over the yellow line and the tail ends of all three busses missed me with less than a meter to spare.

I felt sick, stopped and looked up to the heaven.

Down in the valley I could look up to the most stunning view to my left and front: The mountains forming part of the rim of the Great Rift Valley …

I rode through the Mikumi National Park, which forms the northern section of the Selous Game Reserve. Luck was on my side. I saw four herds of elephants, many giraffes (also those nearly black ones seen often in photographs from Tanzania), one warthog and many impalas.

The heaven was covered with a thick layer of clouds most of the day. It started raining at three. I was soaked. Red muddy water filled the villages next to the road. Where ever I looked to find a dry place for my tent I stumbled on mushy muddy ground. In my helmet I sent an SOS prayer up to the heaven. Just before dark, in pouring rain, I found an African guest house at the T-junction towards Arusha! Another prayer answered.

I’ve got electricity in my room and I can charge all my appliances! The water in the shower was murky brown yellow but who cares. Not me. Go and read again my travel philosophy. That doesn’t mean that I am now a hardened traveler. I just don’t care tonight. I can sleep dry.

Tomorrow I will pass Kilimanjaro. With all the rain I doubt whether I will see anything of that majestic mountain.

I am gong to bed soon, as a very thankful person.

(Translating into English takes so much time. Is there any kind person that is prepared to do the translations into English for me? If, please let know. I will invite you for a cup of coffee and carrot cake when I am back in SA)

Woensdag 26 Maart - Tanzanie

My roete in rooi.

My gasvrou toe ek vanoggend gegroet het. Haar man het die foto geneem.

My uitsig by die Farmhouse / My view at the Farmhouse

Tanzanië

Beginpunt: Bongo Camping

Eindpunt: so 60km wes van Iringia

Afstand: 345 km

Vandag het ek die eerste keer bietjie geïrriteerd geraak. Hier is ek in Tanzanië, nog met petrol van Malawi, en nêrens kry ek geld gewissel nie! Hoe op dees aarde kan mens reis sonder Tanzaniese geld? Maak nie saak klein of groot dollar note nie, die geldwisselaars op straat bied ‘n patetiese koers aan, en by banke staan die toue mense tot buite.

Langs die een bank was ‘n Toyota agentskap, en omdat Toyota my nog nooit in die steek gelaat het nie, is ek uit pure desperaatheid daarheen. En waarmee het ek uitgekom? Met ‘n klomp Tanzaniese shillings!

Toyota is die voertuig (en bank?) vir Afrika!

Vandag was dit net ry en ry omdat ek so vroeg moontlik hier wou wees vir lekker berigte skryf. Ek was toe vroeg hier, net nie die krag nie. Dit het eers half sewe aangekom.

Waaroor ek wel kan skryf, is my blyplek. Dis die Old Farm House (Kisolanza Farm). Dis gemoedelikheid in die bos en ‘n baie, baie vriendelike personeel met ‘n aandete wat grens aan sonde van lekkerte. Ek gaan netnou vir die eerste keer in ‘n hele lang tydjie in ‘n regte bed slaap met ‘n kussing onder my kop. ‘n Kussing … Waardeer jy jou kussing by die huis?

Ek het Phillip hier by die Farm House ontmoet. Met hom het gebeur wat met enige motorfietsryer kan gebeur. Hy was met sy BMW motorfiets op pad Engeland toe. Die fiets se ratkas het hier naby opgepak. Vannag word ‘n ratkas van die Kaap na Dar es Salaam opgevlieg en hopenlik teen laat more middag is dit hier. Hy sit nou al drie dae hier. Hy wil nou die fiets net tot in Nairobi ry en dan van daar af Engeland toe vlieg.

Ek gaan nou groet. Ek hoop om moreaand weer ‘n stukkie te kan skryf. More gaan ‘n baie lang dag word.

Tanzania

Starting Point: Bongo Camping

Final Destination: approximately 60km west of Iringia

Distance: 345 km

Today, for the first time, I got a little bit irritated. Here I am in Tanzania, still with petrol from Malawi, and I can’t exchange money anywhere! How on earth can a person travel without Tanzanian currency? It doesn’t matter if it is small or big dollar bills, the money-changers on the street offer a pathetic rate and at the bank people are queuing to the outside.

There was a Toyota dealership next to one of the banks, and because Toyota has never failed me before, I went there out of pure desperation. And with what did I return? With Tanzanian shillings!

Toyota is the vehicle (and bank?) for Africa!

Today it was just driving and driving because I wanted to get here early in order to write reports. And I was here early, but the electricity wasn’t. It only came on at half past six.

What I can write about, is my accommodation. It is the Old Farm House (Kisolanza Farm). It is joviality in the bush and very, very friendly staff with a dinner that is so delicious it borders on sin. Just now, for the first time in a long time I am going to sleep in a real bed with a pillow beneath my head. A pillow…Do you appreciate your pillow at home?

I met Phillip here at the Farm House. What happened to him can happen to any motorcyclist. He was on tour with his BMW motorcycle to England. The bike’s gearbox packed up nearby. A gearbox is being flown in tonight from the Cape to Dar es Salaam, and hopefully it will be here by tomorrow late afternoon. He has been stuck here for three days. He now wants to ride the bike to Nairobi and then fly to England from there.

I am going to say goodbye now. I hope I can write again tomorrow. Tomorrow is going to be a very long day.

Dinsdag 25 Maart - Tanzanie

Dit het baie gereen en die meeste riviere is in vloed / It rained hard and most rivers are in flood.

Ek het 'n bergpas afgekom en dié gesig het my begroet / I came down a mountain pass and this was the view I had ...

Die kinders by die Bongo kampeerplek / The children at the Bongo camping site.

Tanzanië

Beginpunt: Nkatha Bay, Malawi

Eindpunt: Bongo Camping Site, Tanzanië

Afstand: 350 km

Ek het vroeg my bagasie reggekry om uit Nkatha Bay te kan vertrek. Die weer het egter nie saamgestem nie. Dit het begin te reën, sulke groot swaar druppels wat net aanhou bly val het.

Heelwat later is ek toe weg. Sommer dadelik het ek ‘n berg om oor te klim. Die kruin was met mis bedek. ‘n Hele paar plekke was die teer weg en net rooi harde grond het oorgebly.

Geleidelik het die ry begin beter word. Die een Malawiese dorpie na die ander het verby geflits. Kort voor twaalf het ek by ‘n paar hutte gestop. Langs die hutte was ‘n houtbrug oor ‘n rivier in vloed. Ek het ses piesangs, twee broodjies en ‘n Coke gekoop en saam met die locals gesit en eet.

Ek het lank langs die Malawiemeer gery. Om die een of ander rede het ek swaar gekry. Die twee dae by Senga Bay met Audrey en Eke was so lekker. Die meer het ‘n gemis na menslike kontak in my losgemaak.

Ek moes weg van die meer. Happiness is the direction, not the place …

Vroegmiddag was ek by die Tanzaniese grens. Alles het vinnig gegaan, net die versekering was stadig. Toe ek uiteindelik daar wegkom, val dit my by ek is in ‘n nuwe tydzone. Tanzanië is een uur vroeër as Suid-Afrika.

Dit het begin skemer word en donkerblou reënwolke het oor die berge saamgepak. Die alleenheid het weer soos ‘n dun kombersie oor my kom lê. Ek het slaapplek gesoek. Alles waarby ek gery het, het my eerder afgestoot. Teen ‘n berghang het ek ‘n bordie Bongo Camping gesien en besluit om daar in te ry. Die paadjie was verspoel en die fiets het onder ‘n paar keer teen klippe gesleep.

‘n Oop grasgelykte het gekom. ‘n Gebou aan die regterkant. Paar tente links. Voor die gebou spelende swart kinders, een man, ‘n Deen, Karsten Gram-Hansen. Was ek bly om mense te sien!!

Karsten woon al ‘n hele paar jaar dae, is besig met gemeenskapsprojekte, het ‘n paar terug ‘n pragtige Tanzaniese vrou getrou. Ons gesels lekker. Karsten mis ook soms maar ander geselskap. Mingwa, sy vrou, maak vir my die lekkerste aandete: Rys, groente in sous, daarby advokado, piesangs, lemoenskywe.

En daar verander ‘n wonderlike ontmoeting ‘n homesick middag in ‘n aand met heerlike gesels en kuier. Is dit tog nie waaroor my rit in die eerste plek gaan nie?

Tanzania

Starting point: Nkatha Bay, Malawi

Final destination: Bongo Camping Site, Tanzania

Distance: 350 km

I had an early start, getting my luggage ready to depart from Nkatha Bay. But the weather didn’t allow. It started raining, big, heavy drops that kept on falling.

I left much later. Almost immediately I had a mountain to climb. The summit was covered in mist. At quite a few places the tar was gone, just red hard ground remained.

The driving conditions gradually improved. One after the other, the Malawian towns passed by. Just before twelve I stopped at a couple of huts. Next to the huts was a wooden bridge over a river in flood. I bought six bananas, two small loafs of bread and a Coke, and sat down with some of the locals to eat.

I drove along Malawi Lake. For some reason I suffered. I enjoyed the two days at Senga Bay with Audry and Ekke. The lake had awakened in me a yearning for human contact.

I had to get away from the lake. Happiness is in the direction, not the place…

I was at the Tanzanian border early afternoon. Everything went well; just the insurance took some time. It occurred to me, after I eventually left the border that I was in a new time zone. Tanzania is an hour before South Africa.

It started getting dark and dark blue rainclouds gathered over the mountains. The loneliness covered me again like a thin blanket. I was looking for a place to sleep. But all the places I drove passed, repulsed me. I saw a sign, Bongo Camping, against a mountain slope and decided to drive in. The road was washed away and at a few places the bike dragged against the rocks.

An open lawn appeared. A building to the right. A few tents to the left. There were black children playing in front of the building, and there was a man, a Deen Karsten Gram-Hansen. I was glad to see people!!

Karsten has been living there for a couple of years and is busy with community projects. He married a beautiful Tanzanian woman. We chatted. Karsten also sometimes misses other companionship. His wife, Mingwa, prepared a delicious dinner for me: rice, vegetables in a sauce, and with it avocado, bananas, and orange slices.

The wonderful meeting changed a homesick afternoon into an evening with pleasant visit and conversation. Isn’t this the reason for my journey?

Maandag 24 Maart - Malawi

My roete in swart / My route in black

Vertrek van Senga Bay / Leaving Senga Bay

Baie brûe is met plank gebou / Many bridges are built like this one.

Waar ek ook al iets koop, is daar baie toeskouers / Where ever I buy something there are spectators.

Malawi

Maandag 24 Maart

Begin: Senga Bay

Eindpunt: Nkatha Bay

Afstand: 335 km

Maandag was ‘n sonskyndag gevul met ‘n paar uur se heerlike ry! Malawi was vir my tot dusver die verrassing van die toer!

Ek het vroeg begin om my tent af te slaan en fiets te begin pak. Daarna het ek en die twee Kanadese, Eke en Audrey, nog eers koffie gedrink. Hulle is twee wonderlike mense wat my pad gekruis het.

Die pad het van die een na die ander dorpie geslinger, en dikwels kon ek die meer aan my regterkant sien.

Ek het nie gisteraand geëet nie en ook nie vanoggend ontbyt nie. Teen tienuur was ek redelik honger. So tien km voor Nkhotakota het ‘n paadjie afgedraai na ‘n lodge toe en is ek op die slingerende grondpad tot teen die meer. Wat ‘n goeie besluit! Teen die water het ek ‘n reuse Engelse ontbyt vir die helfte van die koste by Senga Bay gekry!

Die KLR het met sy swaar vrag gelukkig voortgedreun: Die spoedbeperking was 80 km/h en in die dorpies net 30 km/h.

Die pad het dikwels vernou tot een voertuig breedte bruggies.

Malawi was tot dusver die land met die meeste padblokkades. Nog geen enkele polisieman het eers geskimp oor ‘n ietsie in die hand nie. Wat my die meeste in Malawi beïndruk het, was die borde by die blokkades wat die mense aanmoedig om nie onwettige houtskool, wat die woude vernietig, te koop nie, ook nie rubberballe wat van onwettige rubber gemaak is. Ek kon dit nie verstaan tot ek so 20 km voor Nkatha Bay was nie. Daar is ‘n woud rubberbome. Kinders het langs die pad met rubberballe gestaan wat hulle te koop aangebied het. Hulle tap die bome onwetting vir rubber en maak dan die balle!

Die pad het afgedaal na Nkatha Bay met ‘n pragtige uitsig oor ‘n blou-blou meer wat in die verte oor die horison verdwyn. Die dorpie self was ‘n reuse teleurstelling. My droom van ‘n laaste aand op die oewer van die meer was net ‘n droom. In die dorpie is ek verpes deur daggaverkopers en prostitute. Het ek dit vooraf geweet, sou ek eerder by een van die vorige kampe gestop het.

Voornemende reisigers: Julle kan maar Nkatha Bay van jul oornagprogram skrap!

My rekenaar en kamera se batterye was feitlik leeg. Ek het teen kampering besluit en eerder ‘n kamer geneem sodat ek alles gelaai kon kry. Net toe ek alles aangesluit het, gaan die krag toe af! Dis nou laatnag, die krag is weer aan en ek tik gou die berig.

My verblyf is ‘n baie twyfelagtige plek in ‘n twyfelagtige buurt. Ek het my tentjie bo-op die bed opgeslaan en ek gebruik eerder my slaapsak …

Dinsdag behoort ek in Tanzanië te wees, en hopenlik weer internet.

Groete!

Monday was a sunshine day filled with hours of most enjoyable riding! Malawi turned out to be the surprise of the tour until now!

I started early breaking camp and packing my bike. Before I left I Eke and Audrey, the two Canadians, invited me for coffee at their tent. They are two wonderful people who crossed my way.

I rode from one little village to the next. Often I could see the lake on my right hand side.

I didn’t have supper on Sunday night and also not breakfast on Monday. At ten I was quite hungry. About ten km before getting to Nkhotakota I saw a sign pointing to a lodge and I decided to try my luck. The gravel road took me about 4 km down to the lake, and then the surprise: A beautiful lodge on the lake with a huge English breakfast half the cost of at Senga Bay!

The KLR was happy with its heavy load and the engine idled at 80 km/h, which is the speed limit on the open road. In the little villages the limit was only 30 km/h.

I had to cross many bridges, which were only one vehicle width.

Malawi was the country with the most police controls up until now. Not a single policeman on my whole trip even suggested a small gift or bribe! To the contrary, at the roadblocks in Malawi they warned against the buying of illegal charcoal or the buying of rubber balls made of illegal rubber. I didn’t understand what they meant with that until I got close to Nkatha Bay. Boys were standing next to the road offering rubber balls to buy. There were huge forests of rubber trees. They illegally milked the trees from their rubber to make and sell the balls!

The road went down a hill to Nkatha Bay with a wonderful view on the blue lake. The town itself was a disappointment. No chance of camping next to the lake like in Senga Bay. In the town I was pestered by dagga dealers and prostitutes. Had I known that before I would have stopped at one of the earlier camps.

So, if you plan to visit Malawi don’t bother to spend a night in this town.

As the batteries of my laptop and camera were nearly flat I had to scrap the idea of camping at Nkatha Bay Lodge. I took a room, and as I started charging all my appliances the light went out! It is now late at night at the power is back.

My accommodation is a dubious looking place in a dubious section of town. I pitched my little tent on the bed, and I am going to use my sleeping bag!

On Tuesday I should cross the border into Tanzania, and hopefully back to internet access!

Take care!

Tanzanie

Goeie middag! Het my dageinde vroeer gemaak om berig te skryf. Net een probleem, die krag kom eers half 7 aan! So, ek en laptop wag saam op die wonderlike krag. Tot later vanaand! Today I stopped earlier to write reports and charge the laptop. After I made my camp I heard that there will be power only at half past 6. Till then!

Tanzania

Hi! Tonight again a short report. My laptop is powerless. Am high up in Tanzanian mountains and discovered something that changed a bit of homesickness into joy. Will tell you on Wednesday! Bye!

Tanzanie

Goeie naand! Murphy het vandag gewerk. My laptop se battery is onverklaarbaar weer pap. Ek is in die teeplantasies van die Tanzaniese berge Het modderpad tot hier bo gery. More stop ek vroeg om behoorlike berig te skryf. Lees more hoe my stukkie heimwee binne sekondes verdwyn het. Groete!

Maandag, 24 Maart, 2008

Naand uit Nkatha Bay, Malawi. Het vandag baie lekker gery. Malawi is ‘n land waarheen ek weer wil terugkom. Oor my verblyf skryf ek more meer. Dis Afrika. Dis alles wat Senga Bay nie was. Teleurstellend.   Good evening from Nkatha Bay, Malawi. Had wonderful day on bike. My accommodation is ... Africa. I miss the vibe of the previous two days. Will tell you more tomorrow. Good night.

Sondag - Malawimeer

My roete deur Zambië (donkerblou lyn)
My route through Zambia (dark blue line)

My roete in Malawi
My route in Malawi

Ekke Kok + Audrey Allenspach-Kok

Laatmiddag by die Malawimeer
Late afternoon at Lake Malawi

Dis vandag ‘n luilekker Sondag.

Ek het vroeg opgestaan en op die rotse gaan sit om die son te sien opkom. ‘n Hele klompie keer het ‘n visarend oor die strand gesweef en sy bekende roep oor die baai laat weerklink.

Van die sonopkoms het niks gekom nie. ‘n Dik wolkebank het oor die meer gelê.

Gisteraand het ons ‘n oop hemel gehad en kon ek die Suiderkruis oor die meer sien. Dit lê al die helfte laer as tuis in Naboomspruit. Binne ‘n week of wat gaan dit weg wees …

Ek het gister op die kampeerplek ‘n Kanadese egpaar, Ekke Kok en Audrey Allenspach-Kok ontmoet. Hulle is met twee BMW’s op pad vanaf Duitsland na Kaapstad toe. Hulle is reeds in Oktober in Duitsland weg. Wat ‘n wonderlike toeval! Ons het gisteraand lekker gesit en gesels en ek het baie waardevolle raad en wenke van die twee gekry.

Dit is hul tweede jaarlange motorfietstoer wat hul aanpak.

Vir die van julle wat in getalle belangstel:

Afstand gereis vanaf Naboomspruit: 2453.4 km

Liters petrol ingegooi: 115.555 liters

Gemiddeld per liter: 21.23 km/l.

Dit is ‘n redelike hoë gemiddeld maar die toestand van en op die pad laat nie ‘n verantwoordelike spoed van meer as 80 km/h toe nie.

Kompliment aan jou, Rina. Die groot kaarte op die sytasse trek baie aandag. By al die polisie kontroles het die mans meer in die kaarte belanggestel. Onthou julle my tien gebooie van die Namibiese rit? Die enigste polisielid wat haar deur niks laat beïndruk het, was ‘n dame gister. Ek moes byna afpak.

Wonderlike Sondag vir julle!

Today is a lazy Sunday.

I got up early and went down to the beach to some rocks to the left to see the sunrise over the lake. A fish eagle soared by and let his call echo over the bay a couple of times.

Nothing came from the sunrise. On the eastern horizon a bank of clouds covered any sign of the sunrise.

Last night we had a beautiful night sky and could I see the Southern Cross. It is much lower over the horizon now as back in Naboomspruit. Within a week or so it will be gone …

Yesterday I met a Canadian couple on the camping site. Ekke Kok and Audrey Allenspach-Kok are on two BMW’s on their way down from Germany to Cape Town! They left Germany already last year during October. What a coincidence! We had a great chat last night, and I got very good tips and information from them.

It is their second year long motorcycle tour that they undertake.

For those of you interested in figures:

Distance traveled from Naboomspruit: 2453.4 km

Liters petrol used: 115.555 liters

Average per liter: 21.23 km/l

It is quite a high average but given the conditions most traveling takes place at an average of 80km/h.

Compliments to you, Rina. Your maps on the side panniers draw a lot of attraction. At every police check point the men were more interested in the maps than in me. Do you remember my ten commandments of the Namibian trip? It was proved true again yesterday. A lady wasn’t interested in all in where I came from. I nearly had to unpack everything.

Enjoy your Sunday!

Malawimeer

Die natuurlikheid van moederskap (nie net in Afrika nie)

The beauty of being a mother (and not only in Africa)

Dié toneel het die ry tot hier die moeite werd gemaak.

This scene made the ride till here worth every cent spent.

Malawimeer: Saterdag 22 Maart.

Ek het tot hier gery, gesien, en nou kan ek in vrede sterf. Ek het die
Malawimeer gesien.

Dit is nie die grootste, mooiste of diepste meer in Afrika nie maar
vandag voel ek of ek nog nooit iets mooier op ons liewe kontinent
gesien het nie.

Sou my reis vandag geëindig het, sou ek tevrede gewees het.

My tentjie staan onder ?n kremetart. Voor my die blou meer, die
strand, en duisende locals wat op die maat van polsende Afrikamusiek
dans. Vanaand gaan blykbaar een reuse Afrika disko hier op die strand
plaasvind.

Ek sou aan enige realiteit afbreuk doen sou ek probeer om dit wat ek
hier voor my sien, te beskryf. Ek kan nie. Daarom gaan ek op hierdie
kort noot eindig deur vir julle almal te sê ek het Afrika nog nooit so
suiwer, so polsend, so vredevol beleef soos vandag nie.

Groete vanaf my kremetartboom.

Lake Malawi: 22 March.

I rode to here, I saw, I am prepared to dy. I saw Lake Malawi.

The lake is not the biggest, the most beautiful or the deepest on the
African continent, but today I feel as if I haven?t seen anything more
beautiful on our dear African continent than this lake.

Should my trip end today I would have been satisfied.

I pitched my tent under a baobab tree. In front of me the blue lake,
the beach, and thousands of African people dancing to the beat of
African music. Apparently a massive African disco will take place on
the beach tonight.

I am not even going to try and describe what I see and feel this
moment. The moment is too big. I cannot put it in writing. Therefore,
on this note I am going to end my short report. I have never seen
Africa so pure, so peaceful, like today.

I greet you from underneath my baobab tree.

Malawi - Lilongwe

Malawi - Lilongwe

Vrydag 21 Maart: Dis was Goeie Vrydag. Dit het die letterlik duisende
fietsryers op die pad verklaar. Dit het soos ?n wiele-Comrades gevoel:
Mens ry deur ?n tonnel van fietsryers.

Die fietse in Zambië en Malawi vervoer letterlik alles. Op my lysie
van passasiers was ?n uitgegroeide vark, groot boerbok, ?n pa met sy
twee kinders, al drie op die drarak, en toe ?n man wie se fiets soos
?n stofveër gelyk het. Toe ek verbyry, sien ek die meeste hoenders wat
ek ooit aan ?n fiets vasgebind gesien het.

Die wonderlikheid van Afrika.

Ek het in ?n overlander kamp in Lilongwe oornag. Daar was twee trokke.
Die een trok se passasiers, jongmense skaars uit die skool, het die
heelnag gesuip en lawaai gemaak. Overlanders? Nee, over-suipers.

Malawi beïndruk my met die landerye orals. My elke klein statjie is
daar droograkke vir tabak. Dit hang nou vol met tabak. Langs die pad
verkoop die vroue tamaties, piesamgs, neuter, pampoene en koejawels.

Hier werk die stelsel van kleinboere.

Friday 21 March: It was Good Friday. That was perhaps the reason for
the thousands of cyclists underway. It felt like a wheels Comrades.
One rides through a tunnel of cyclists going in both ways.

The bicycle is the most popular means of transport in Zambia and
Malawi. On my list of passengers on the carrier I saw a big pig, a big
goat, a dad with two children, and a bicycle that looked like one
massive chicken until, as I passed it, saw the most chickens packed
together on a bicycle I?ve ever seen.

That is why I love Africa.

I spent Friday night in an overlander camp in Lilongwe. There were two
trucks. The passengers of the one truck were more or less twenty, and
their only priority was to drink as much as possible until daybreak.
Overlanders? No over-doers.

Malawai was a big surprise. Everywhere near the villages the people
have crop growing. At every village one sees dry racks filled with
tobacco. Next to the roads the women sold a lot of tomatoes, nuts,
beans, bananas, guavas and pumpkins.

Here the system with existential farmers clearly work.

Vrydag, 21 Maart, 2008

Naand uit Lilongwe, Malawi. Het n baie lekker rydag gehad. Ek sal more van die Malawimeer weer n lang berig skryf.  Good evening from Lilongwe, Malawi. I had a good day's riding and arrived safely. Travel to Lake Malawi tomorrow, will then write a proper report. Enjoy your evening!

Zambië - Petauke

(English below)

 

Wat 'n wondelrike dag! Die son het geskyn en vir die eerste keer sedert Saterdag het ek nie natgereën nie!

 

Ek gaan net kort skryf want die laptop se battery gaan binnekort leeg wees.

 

Die dag was alles wat ek van so 'n toer wil hê: 'n Kronkelende pad deur die mooiste bos en berge met verskuilde dorpies langs die pad

 

Die afstand van 413 km tot by Petauke het my weer die grootste deel van die dag geneem. Daar was alles op die pad: Kinders, varke, fietse, bokke, honde, en nogmaals voetgangers. Slegs die laaste 70km het baie slaggate gehad.

 

Ek het in klein dorpies gestop, Coke gekoop, broodjies (vars van 'n houtvuur) geeët, op die brug oor die Luangwarivier 'n Jood ontmoet wat vanaf Tanzanië nou Suid-Afrika toe ry met sy motorfiets. En nou kamp ek langs 'n rietskerm op groen gras (al my Kwachas is op). Ek het vir 'n swart gesin gevra of hulle nie bereid is om vir my pap en groente te maak as ek hulle met Dollar betaal nie.

 

n die verte sing die vrouens, en ek het netnou eers besef dit more Goeie Vrydag.

 

My enigste vrees vir die dag was petrol. Ek het in Lusaka volgemaak, en my eerste petrol was eers weer in Nyimba, 340km van Lusaka. Die KLR het nie eers 15 liter geneem nie!!

 

More behoort ek in Lilongwe, Malawi, aan te kom.

 

'n Baie geseënde Paasfees wens ek julle almal toe!

 

 

I had the best day of the trip! It was a sunny day with no rain, the first time since Saturday!

 

I am going to keep it short. The power of the laptop is nearly finished.

 

I couldn't ask for a better day. Again a lush green bush, small villages hidden in the bush, a road snaking through and over mountains, and spectacular scenery.

 

I covered only 413 km today but again it took me nearly 7 hours. The road to Petauke was quite good except for the last 70 km. The problem was children, pigs, goats, pedestrians and many cyclists swerving over the road. One had to keep the speed down.

 

I stopped in a number of small villages, drank Coke, bought fresh bread rolls from the fire. On the bridge over the Luangwa river I met a Jew who was travelling with his motorcycle from Tanzania down to South Africa. And now I am camping next to a reed wall on green grass. I have used al my Kwachas and could not change on the route to Petauke, as there were no banks. I asked a black family whether I could buy porridge and vegetables from them and pay in Dollar. They are now making me something to eat.

 

In the distance I hear women singing. I only realised now that tomorrow is Good Friday.

 

I became a bit worried today. I filled up with petrol in Lusaka, and the next filling station was only in Nyimba, a good 340 km further. Fortunately the KLR took only 14.4 liters, still 8 liters to go before it would have been empty.

 

I should arrive in Lilonge, Malawi, tomorrow.

 

I wish you all a blessed Easter Weekend!

Dit was 'n lang Woensdag

(English below)

 

Ek het nie baie van vandag gehou nie. Ek gaan in die toekoms rusdae beperk.

 

Ek het die fiets vanoggend deurgegaan, skoongemaak, geolie, entjie gaan ry, gaan kyk hoe Lusaka lyk. Daarna het ek hier waar ek bly, gaan stap en na sonneblomlande gekyk, blomme afgeneem, foto's van die kampterrein geneem, en nou sit ek en wag dat ek more kan begin ry. Hierdie kamp is 'n overlander kamp, en ek het gehoop dat hier miskien die een of ander overlander gaan wees. Hier is niemand nie. :-)

 

Zambie (deelteken :-) is 'n duur land. Nie net die petrol is bitter duur nie, ook goedere in die winkels, soos kos, is vir my baie duur. Hoe kry die mense geleef?

 

Vandag het die son vir 'n rukkie geskyn, maar dit het nou net weer begin drup.

 

More ry ek reg oos, hopenlik tot by die dorpie Petauke. Oormore behoort ek in Malawi te wees, maar nog nie by die meer nie.

 

Vandat ek op pad is, het ek die Suiderkruis nog net twee keer gesien. Die res van die nagte was bewolk.

 

Ek was bederf nou met die internet. Binnekort is dit nie meer moontlik om per GPRS die opdaterings te doen nie.

 

As enige iemand direk op 'n inskrywing wil kommentaar lewer, kan julle dit oor die Wegbreek doen (www.wegbreektydskrif.com). Op die voorblad is die bloglink. Rezanne sal vir my alle kommentare aanstuur.

 

Geniet jul aand!

 

 

 

I don't appreciate rest days. I have to restrict them to the bare minimum.

 

This morning I checked the bike, made sure that all bolts were still tight, I oiled the chain and then rode to Lusaka to see a bit of the city. Back at the camping site I walked a while, went to see the sunflower fields, took photographs of flowers, the camping site, my bike, just playing to kill the time.

 

Zambia is an expensive country. Not only the petrol but also the basic commodities in the shops are so much more expensive than in South Africa. I wonder how the average Zambian manages to live.

 

Tomorrow my route goes directly east. I hope to spend the night at the village called Petauke. The day thereafter I should be in Malawi, if not at the lake.

 

Since I left I saw the Southern Cross only twice. The rest of the time the heaven was covered with a thick layer of clouds.

 

I was spoilt with the internet available in Zambia. Soon I cannot use GPRS anymore, have then to use the expensive satellite communication.

 

If anyone would like to comment on any contribution in my diary you can do it directly over the website of the Wegbreek magazine (www.wegbreektydskrif.com). You'll see the link on the front page. Rezanne will send me any comments.

 

Enjoy your evening!